Majestic Manaslu: The Golden Experience

The golden experience

I have already stated in my previous blogs that “I am an avid mountain lover.” There is something about those snowy caps and the high gigantic peaks that pulls me. I love the mountains so much that even after I die I want to be buried near the mountains. Following my wide love for mountains, I go for trekking at least once a year. Even sometimes, once a year had been hard to manage the money so after my traineeship at UNDP, I took the female trekking guide training course conducted by Nepal Mountain Academy (NMA) in 2018. I was one amongst the 5^th batch of the training and to get the female trekking guide license. Officially a FEMALE TREKKING GUIDE!!! 

I am currently working as a Donor Project Officer in Disaster Response and Resilience sector in a reputed and the oldest NGOs in Nepal. ( Google it…you’ll find the name!!! ) Therefore, because of the hectic work and travels, I barely can manage for treks. However, I have holidays and annual leaves that let me walk towards the mountains. After I got the license in July 2018, this was the first time I used my license to becoming a professional female guide. And on top of it, the opportunity was Larke-La in Manaslu Circuit. My guests were the couple from one of the donor agencies of where I currently work. They were aware that I do the desk job these days and was the first time in the route and for such a long day of 13 days. From this trip I believe there were two advantages: 1) for myself 2) for my organisation. Hence, I had been able to get good long holidays and started preparing for the trek. This trek has 3 bits: Preparation, Duration and End.

1.       Preparation: I never had done the Restricted Areas Trek so I was not aware of the special permit thing and things ought to be carried from a registered agency. I always had been to ACAP regions and was only aware of the ACAP permit and TIMS and nothing more. Therefore, this time finding an agency and doing the permit thing gave me a headache. I had fever and tonsillitis in that week after I came back to the office from the BARA PARSA STORM RESPONSE from my organization. This means I was in medication with the doses of the antibiotics for 5 days. BTW tonsillitis is my kinder disease and fever is an annual one. I made loads of communication among my links and finally, a friend of mine helped me. It was Nest Adventures who helped me get the permit done. She is my friend and that is the reason she helped me for once but I shall not ask for the next time as there are legal things that can affect the company. Great thanks to her and Nest. NEST Adventure is one of the most popular agencies in the Manaslu Circuit. They have good conduct and relations there. I am heartily thankful to them.

The second preparation was for the vehicle (green plate) from KTM-SOTIKHOLA. For this too, I had made a link and connection from one of the drivers when I was working as a consultant liaison officer for All Nepal Football Association (ANFA) in under 16 Female Football Tournament for the Philippines. I reserved a vehicle from them since April 2 and when asked about the vehicle number and driver on the last week prior to departure, the owner was grumpy to me saying “you still have a week time. My son will inbox you the number by Monday” as we were departing on Tuesday. I was a little scared to call him back. So on Monday noon, when all the permits were sorted, I made a call to him thinking it's his number as I had not saved his number. Already mentioned I had contacted a number of people from my network so this number was from amongst and not from the reserved vehicle which I found out 1 hour earlier to our departure. The number I made a call heard all the things that I said, did not even try to clarify, deal done on the price and gave me the number and name of the vehicle. This was done by 6 PM in the evening on Monday. Till this time the original reservation did not make a call. However, on the very next morning on Tuesday, the reservation number gives me a call asking if the vehicle is arranged. Still was thinking, I talked to his son, gave the details of the vehicle to him. He called me back saying he does not know him and asked me who arranged the vehicle. Told him it's his son I believe. Then I realize the number I called is from a referral from one of my contacts for the permit and I did a mistake. He was asking for the charge but I told him, he should have provided me on Monday or even called on Monday not 1 hour earlier prior to departure. It’s his mistake. However, I shall contact him the next time. The morning was seriously horrible to me.

Duration: This section is going to be long as I will be writing my 13 days stories here.

Day1: Departure from KTM-Soti Khola (1400m- 720m)

Me with Frank daju and Connie Vauju

My guests were picked up by this newly arranged vehicle at 7:00 AM from Thamel by Niraj Dai; A sweet and very humble person. (He owns this vehicle. If anyone wants to reserve his vehicle contact: 985……) After they left from Thamel around 7:45AM; they picked me up from Kalanki as I directed at 8:15AM. We drove to Soti Khola via Dhading Besi. Since it was the first time of Niraj Dai to drive through that way, he was excited and happy too. Around 2:30 PM, we arrived at Soti Khola and stayed in Hotel ABC. It was a comfortable one and the owner is nice and talkative. At Arrughat a funny incident happened. The policeman asked to do the 4 copies each of the permit and to do so, we dropped off at Arughat where people were gossiping like “WHERE IS THE GUIDE?”

Day 2: Soti Khola-KhorlaBesi (720m-940m)

The official walking days started from Day 2. Since there was another guide coming from the Nest with the same itinerary and dates as mine, NEST liaised me with him. He is a 19-year-old sweetie young brother Sunil Bhandari: all the way from Dhading. (Bro…I hope you like how I introduced you :P). We started at 6 in the morning without taking breakfast because for me, an early walk is like the morning walk and you have no Sun making you difficult to walk and en route, there are possibilities to have the breakfast if you are hungry. So we walked in plain most of our ways this day and reached to Khorlabesi after 8 hours of the walk where we stayed at Shangrila Cottage. Generally, people tend to stay at Machhakhola (tourist checkpoint ) and trek to Jagat the next day but to shorten the distance, I preferred to stay at Khorlabesi.

Day 3: Khorlabesi – Jagat (940m-1440m)

The night at Khorlabesi was quite disturbing because of the noises from donkeys but otherwise, it was alright. My guests were sleeping in a cottage with an attached bathroom and they felt nice about it. My guests were avid Dal Bhat fan, so during the trek, they had already decided to eat Dal Bhat or something local only. Easy bits for me! We followed the same routine this day leaving at 6 in the morning thinking the journey will be 6 hours but again due to the sun and the gradually increasing height, it took 8 hours to reach Jagat. Sunil vai had reached there at around 11:30 while we reached around 2 PM. Jagat Hotel was where we had stayed and the owner of this hotel is very friendly and nice. This is the point where the Restricted Area starts. After doing the RAP entry, I went to collect my food coupon which worths NPR 200 per meal which otherwise would cost up to 850 in Dharamshala. Anyway, since I am not so much fan of Dal Bhat and also I knew it won’t be as nice as in down, so I just purchased a few coupons so as to make rooms for other food. Jagat was a nice place. I stayed in a cosy room though was for guides. Guests were happy for having clean room and toilet. They enjoyed the stay at Jagat though there are nothing to see. 

Day 4: Jagat to Deng (1440m-1860m)

We knew this day is another long day so we started at 6 again without having any breakfast but I had a little breakfast at the hotel while I was waiting for my guests. Way from Jagat to Deng includes different landscapes and mostly walking alongside the river. The straight uphill is something I detest to walk on. However, most of the ways are like this so I had no option but walk. Passing through different small villages and routes filled with the potter donkeys carrying the loads to upper villages, we finally reached to Deng around 4PM in the afternoon. It was a tiring day. In this very day, I had the blister coming up on my right foot. I was scared if this will hinder in my trek but since my guests had the good blisters tape, it helped me a lot. 

Deng is also called as Dyang in the local language. We stayed at Hotel Windy Valley. The hotel owner was very talkative and other sisters working there were very nice and sweet. Going into the kitchen, looking at how they cook and what they cook was awesome. Some foreigners never had seen the Nepali Chulo and were taking pictures. Some foreigners seemed not to have read the lonely planet or some books where they teach the Nepali etiquette. Some foreigners were very public when they’ve already got the room for privacy. It was fun to just stare at them combined so they would feel shame. Most of the time till this journey, I was the character of surprise for the foreign trekkers for being a guide which none had imagined. I enjoyed making people surprised, amazed and what not. Sorry no shower! The water is already cold.. I have started to smell. Ewwwww!!! 

Day 5: Deng to Namrung (1860m-2560m)

Initially, we thought the short days of hike has finally come so we decided to start our trek from 7 in the morning after having breakfast. And since male guides and potters are very good to walk, it was a perfect time for them but for me, I now believe I should have left at 6 again. Anyway, we passed through the different beautiful villages this time like Rana, Chisapani, Eklebhatti, Gap. Walking alongside rive, the nose straight uphill and amidst the beautiful red rhododendron forest filled the tiring long journey with the pleasant feeling. I was walking very slowly while my guests were ahead of me. People were asking if I am the guide and about my guests. I was telling people all the way “Yes, I am a guide and my guests are ahead of me waiting for me.” They literally asked if I am from Kathmandu looking the way I am, how I speak and my walking pace. And of course, you can easily identify Kathmanduities, spoiled potato like me.
My trekking stick was another interesting thing for the people in the journey. Actually, I do not have the trekking stick but I carry the natural log for walking. This stick was given by hotel dai of ABC hotel at soti Khola and was bit thick. Who cares if it is for free and can manage my weight. I have put on some kilos because of my intensive field trips where I mostly ate the local river fishes and local food.

Around 5 PM, we finally reached Namrung. We stayed at the Numbri Four Seasons Resort which is owned by Lakpa uncle; friend of the uncle from my church. Having a resort in a trekking area sounds Posh. And indeed it was posh for the area though things are limited than in the real resort. I was given a guest room because of being an only female amongst the guides.. Good for me! The cook in that resort was from Banepa and I had my schooling at Thimi so he was very nice to me offering the foods that I want to eat. A perk of being a female and also belonging to the same places. I had a very good sleep there and yes also the internet. This day Sunil vai’s guest had chosen the guest house so they were staying at a very cold and rough place. It was too funny to know what Sunil vai felt. That evening sunil vai was angry with me for I did not make him a call telling I'd arrived at Namrung. He told he was ready to go in search of me. Sweet of him. Begged thousands of apologies though.

Day 6: Namrung to Lho (2560m - 3200m)

The day was supposed to be a short one and indeed it was. Almost 4-5 hours of walk. We left the hotel at 7 in the morning passing through the beautiful Namrung village. Namrung has another tourist checkpoint to enter your guest information. From Namrung, you can really enjoy the view. You play hide and seek with Siringi Himal up to Deng fromJagat but from this point, one can see the clear view to Samdo Himal and the way leads to see other beautiful ranges, villages and landscapes. The way was bit easy beforehand but maybe because of the hunger or what, it was so hard for me to walk the 15 minutes uphill to Lho village. I enjoyed the walk seeing people working in the fields, Yaks grazing and the colourful rhododendron along the way just resembling the Welcome gestures. 

Shyo village is before Lho village from which on a clear day, Manaslu Himal is clearly visible. I honestly enjoyed the linear mountain ranges. Therefore around 11:30, I reached the hotel at Lho. My guests were already there as Sunil vai was also there with his guest. I shared the room with the hotel assistant lady from Barpak. She was sweet. In the night when she came to sleep, we talked about the earthquake scenario at Barpak and it was scary to know. The dinner was alright and this was where I ate the Yak sukuti. The hotel is called Mount Manaslu where there is a stone in the dining which clearly resembles the Manaslu and the circuit. I reckon this place to stay. It has beautiful cottages and also the hotel owner is nice.

Lho village is unique in its own. It is a beautiful village and has a Lho monastery which is a place to see at Lho.

Day 7: Lho to Sama Gaon (3200m-3550m)

Lho to Sama Gaon is also a short day trek. However, the scorching sun is something that none would like. Therefore we left Lho at 6:30 in the morning and then headed to Sama. After leaving Lho, it is uphill for about 10 minutes and it is a straight downhill again that passes through the beautiful forest until you reach Shyala. Shyala is one of the best places so far in the trek. I recommend a night stay in this place. The 360 degrees of the mountain ranges make you feel fresh and gives you extra energy. Resting for a bit at Shyala, we walked for Sama Gaon.  Around 11 AM, we arrived at Sama Gaon. It was totally enthralling and it was the day which was holding an annual festival. Sama Gaon has another tourist check post. The policemen literally called me for the entry as I was not aware there existed a police station as I had only seen a yak inside. The policemen were young so of course, they were trying to tease me. I responded to some but mostly I ignored. They are just policemen!!!

TashiDelek Ai! Was something I knew to greet to didi type of ladies and this made them think I can speak the language. This was a funny incident. We stayed at Hotel Manaslu in Samagaon. The owner also lived in Kathmandu so they were nice to me. I shared the room with Sunil vai. This was the second time I had shared the room with him. The first night, he could not sleep well as he was not used to having the lights on while sleeping and I needed light. He was scared for the lights again but alas this place had no electricity. “Moti Didi/Gyampee” I had been called all the way through like this. It was funny torture but I am no less either. He is known as “Lurey Vai”.

After lunch, we moved to the Gumba to see the festival. We had an awesome time at the Gumba. There was a break for a moment and we went to see Birendra Lake afterwards. Birendra Lake was awesome. We also saw the Avalanche en route Manaslu Base Camp from down there. Sunil Vai was the little mermaid for the day :P

Day 8 was a rest day at Sama Gaon where I sent my guests with other guides to Pungen Gompa and I had a long morning sleep. I met many guides and talked to them. That was a beautiful day. The last RAP point is in Sama Gaon. It was previously at Larke Bazaar but because of the avalanche once, the police station and checkpoints were relocated at Namrung and Sama.

Day 9: SamaGaon to Samdo (3250m -3800m)

This is a short hike too and the way is not that hard despite the height. Samdo is a very small village with very limited accommodation. The food is very basic to basic and the price is high. We stayed at the Yak Hotel and I was given a room just near to the reception area. Most of the guides and hotels run by the males use slangs while they speak and not comfortable to the ears of a female like me. So it was a rough time there. The food was basic too and since I did not feel safe there, I exchanged my room with Sunil Vai. Initially, I had asked him to take the room that would accommodate us two as I feel safe and comfortable with Sunil Vai. He was like” Because I regard you as my sister from heart, I shall not let any harm come near to you. If you feel not safe, just come to me.”

I was walking, sitting and talking mostly with Sunil vai and another is JD dai. Once, JD dai went to see the women crying for her Yak and I stayed at another hotel with other guide and potter dai haru. This was the place where I met my life saviour daju. He had told me if my luggage is heavy I can give him some and he would carry. I was so thankful for this kindness but since I could carry myself, I did not let him and this day went like that. A short hike up to 4200m was done where I literally chased around the Blue Sheeps and stayed there watching them and the avalanches.

Day 10: Samdo to Dharamshala (3800-4400m)

The day is uphill though short and altitudewise: 3800m -4400m. Around 7, we left the hotel towards Dharamshala. The way gave the touch hand distance feeling of mountains. The area resembled the view of the snow desert. After 4 and a half hours of uphill walk, we finally saw our destination: Dharamshala. This is a cold and very basic of basic accommodation. There are only 2 hotels in operation and the price is very high. NPR 850 for a dal bhat, 600 for a litre of hot water, etc. The room has 4 lined up mattresses whereupon need, should be sleeping by 5-6 people. I did not like they asked me to sleep like that with guys. The cook was not nice either. He was hitting on me almost all the time till I got angry and people scolded him. Sunil vai was staying in another hotel while my guests; since they had to share the bed and already cosy with an American old couple, had stayed at the Hotel Larke La. As already told, I am a slow walker, they were already in their room so I could not do anything.

Thanks to God and Sunil Vai, after telling the whole scenario and since I was not feeling safe in that hotel, Sunil Vai arranged for me to sleep at the dining room and he came to sleep there too. It was comfort in an uncomfortable place. At 3:00 AM, I woke up and went down to my hotel to arrange the breakfast and food for the Larke Pass so we depart by latest 3;30am.

Day 11: The Larke Pass to Bimtang (4400m-5160m-3700m)

This was the hardest day ever. I already had the breathing problem since the night and I was struggling to eat the foods given. Soon as I started walking uphill, it was even harder for me to breathe and my body was feeling very weak. Seeing this, my life saviour dai, who was walking behind me, asked me to give my bag to him. I was not feeling okay to hand him my bag as he was already carrying the loads. He was like I have done this pass many times and I should help you. Had you been okay you would have carried by yourself but this is the time to help! My guests were walking in their pace and I was walking with that dai. En route, while I rested, other guide dai gave me medicine and chocolates to energise me. Sunil Vai saw that dai with his loads and my bag. He was like “Moti didi is ready to die now so I shall carry her bag so I could take all the money that’s within the bag" and took the bag from the saviour dai and carried along. People were taking care of me. The pass was full of snow and after doing the Larke point, there was a steep step down covered in snow and ice. I had no crampons. So this saviour dai caught my hand and we walked together and later JD dai came and helped me go down. My legs were shaking all the way. All the potters were like “How can you be a guide when you cannot walk?” And I was like “ My guests know about his. They do not have a problem with it how can you? And this is how I learn.” And made them shut their f***ing mouth. I am good at making people shut while I’m pissed. 

Gopal Dai: Saviour

From the Larke Point to Bimthang is straight downhill and all the way later. 
It was a total victory to do the pass and come down through that icy steeps. Around 12, we reached at Bimthang and Stayed at the Ponker Hotel. Bimtang has another Lake Ponker lake which is like 6 hours to go and come and is seen from while you descend from Larke. I took the number of my life saviour dai in a hope to meet him again. I am already indebted by his kindness and I know I cannot return the same but in some ways, I want to help him for which he will remember me too. I am praying for this.

Day 12: Bimtang to DharaPani (3700-1860m)

Initially, we had planned to stay at Tilche but since I did not want to walk the other day, I asked all the groups including JD dai’s and Sunil vai to stay at Dharapani.  The way from Bimthang till Surki was awesome as it passed through the beautiful rhododendron forests with the splendid morning mountain views. All the guests were very happy on that day. Though the day was long, it was really worth it. All the tiredness was gone after the cold shower and a big plate of French fries. I love fried potatoes to bits.

Day 13: Dharapani to Pokhara

We reserved a jeep from Dharapani to Besisahar initially and then from Besisahar to Pokhara. It was the same jeep but due to different groups and no of pax. I had to do this. Dropped the guests to their hotel and I went to my room at Pokhara.

End: Learning

1.       Never overestimate your health.

2.       Eat what you can. Though I wanted to I could not.

3.       Don’t be too picky which I am.

All is well that ends well! I am very thankful to Nest Adventures, my friend Shova Khanal, Sunil Vai, Gopal Dai and Frank Daju and Connie Vauju for this trip.

Happy for the trip for whatsoever and next is Shey-Phoksundo!