Manang: Tilicho Diaries

Tilicho Lake

With the mental and physical tiredness at work, I seriously needed a holiday escape. And fortunately, this time around my friends and my time matched. So, we decided to make a Manang Trip to Tilicho. It was a luck driven journey as well because initially, we had heard the hotels in Manang, especially at Base Camp is super busy and will get no rooms to sleep. However, we took the chance on it and made our journey. The journey started from Kathmandu Balaju Bus Park. The 8 days journey from/to Kathmandu. The itinerary is:

Day 1: Travel from Kathmandu to Besisahar.

Day 2: Besisahar to Chame

Day 3: Chame to Humde

Day 4: Humde to Khangsar

Day 5: Khangsar to Tilicho Base Camp

Day 6: Tilicho Base Camp-Tilicho-Tilicho Base Camp- Khangsar

Day 7: Khangsar-Manang-Besisahar

Day 8: Besisahar-Kathmandu

House at Humde

This trip had cost around NRs 15000 each for three. Had we got the more money, we would have passed through Thorung-La and come back to Kathmandu via Jomsom/Muktinath. We've been unlucky this time but surely in future.

The trip was challenging to be honest. Guys living in the altitude of 1400m were trying to adjust in the altitude of 3000+ and 4000+ in a day gap. I had blood clots on my nose and had difficulty in sleeping. My friends had also breathing problem and all of us could not sleep most of our nights . The beds are not comfy which I never hoped as well because I know how hard life is out there and even having a simple thing underneath your body is a lot. 

Pisang

The jeeps are available from Besisahar until Khangsar and will charge a Nepalese from NRS 2500-NRs 3000 each. It would have been much difficult to go to Khangsar directly in terms of breathing, so we had stayed at Chame and Humde. The way of Manang is dangerous in my view and the walking trails are small. It had been the very challenging trek for me. Coming down from Tilicho, I had counted the 15 turns that one should walk uphill while going to Tilicho. The high altitude walks, small walking trails and the less oxygen, what do you need and en course, a lady having your lady's days.I surpassed this situation.
Tilicho Base Camp is at 4210m and you get to walk uphill to 4919m straight uphill. It took us 4 hours to reach Tilicho Lake. We also could not stay there for long as it was freezing cold. Coming down been more difficult for me. I had nausea, I had a headache, my legs were shaking to walk downhill, my face was swollen and the blood clots on my nose. But I did it. I did make Tilicho. I accomplished it. It took us 2 hours to be back from Tilicho to Basecamp.

Bhrakha

After the lunch, we started walking back to Kangsar where we assumed to have a jeep to go down to the Besisahar. We stayed at Khangsar that night but on the very next day, there was no jeep so we walked down to Manang. There was no jeep again. We did not think of the day. It was the Vai Tika day, the fifth day of Tihar, and the jeeps won’t be operating. I was really frustrated to hear that as I had no power to walk and we could not think of staying at for our money was running out. Slowly and slowly, we did walk and while almost reaching to Bhraka, a jeep came from Chame to Manang. We were praying and hoping for the jeep to return. But the local people motivated us to walk for there is no certainty that the jeep will return for being the Tika day. So, we moved ahead. Nearly reached Humde and there came that jeep to Chame.

Shiree Khadka

 Lucky us, the Jeep allowed us in its back and we reached to Chame around 11 in the morning. Upon reaching there, we decided to eat something and afterward we needed to walk as there would be no any vehicles. My friend was proposing to walk until Chamje or before that as it is downhill. Few steps ahead, there was a jeep which was planning to go to Humde to pick its passengers. However, since he could not make the communication, the driver became ready to go to Besisahar. We paid NRS 1750 each to come down to Besisahar from Chame.  It was around 12:30 PM when we started driving. Along the way, he picked many travelers and slowly and safely he dropped us in Besisahar at 8:00PM. We got relieved for we did not need to think of the money now as it would be sufficient to go back home. The night at Besisahar was relieving and we had a good sleep finally.

on the way to Tilicho

Tilicho Lake

The next day coming to Kathmandu was a torture as there were no drivers for the microbus coming to Kathmandu because all the drivers had gone home to have blessings from their sisters the previous day. Waited for more than an hour, a bus appears. A big crowd of people waiting and limited seat. Again, being lucky, we were allowed to have seats in the bus cabin. The bus had picked so much of passengers where three people were sitting in a two-seater, 4 in a three seater and even in the bumper.  I never will forget for being vomited over by a little kid in the ride. It was a torturous bus ride for me. Many of the travelers to Kathmandu were stranded for having limited vehicles. I assumed myself lucky to get a bus and even a seat as well despite having soaked trousers in vomit.

Around 4 PM, we reached Kalanki and departed for our house. The overall trip was memorable and full of excitements and challenges. However, I will never ever go to Manang by foot again. I will prefer heli instead :P

My next destination will be determined by the number of holidays I will have and also the budget. I'm planning to visit Janakpur and Sindhuli this Christmas though with a friend who is from Sindhuli. I am planning for Mustang and Dolpa too but prolly, this will happen in 2018.

Hasta la Vista Baby! See you in my next experience.

My training experience at Bharatpur, Chitwan

Around 10 AM of the Sunday morning, I arrived at the REDD office of the Ministry of Forestry at BabarMahal. Having the opportunity to participate in the training on data analysis and report writing organized by Li-Bird and GrowInnova, was a ‘Bon Chance’. I did not need to pay even a single penny. Everything was arranged and included in the training course fee, which was paid by my

agency. Adding to the knowledge I would be getting from the training, I was also entitled to receive the 20% of the DSA. The second reason for me to be happy. The training had mostly the late 30s to mid 40s participants besides few were in the late 20s just like me in the mid-20s and were female.

R-studio

As it is a well-known and well-followed tradition of Nepalese to arrive late, the day was also the regular one. Adding to it, the participants were government officials from different ministries. We were 13 in the microbus so hired to depart to Bharatpur. I was initially excited about my trip but later, the excitement became a torture as the road to Chitwan from Kathmandu is very long and the roads are full of puddles and jerks. My back was straight prior to departing to Bharatpur but when I reached Bharatpur, my back bent like a bow. Why the f*** the roads are so bad even when we pay so much taxes!

Anyway, we reached the hotel at around half-seven in the evening in a luxurious hotel, Hotel Royal Century of Bharatpur, just beside the Bhatbhateni Supermarket. Bharatpur is located in the Terai belt and hence it is hotter than Kathmandu. Therefore, I had turned on the AC in my room all the time. The nicest thing for the evening was, my room partner stayed at her house in Chitwan rather to staying at Hotel. The room was all for me and I was the queen of the room. From the next day, the training started and was for 5 days continuous. The training was basically focused on using R and R-Studio in the data Analysis along with some additional info on Excel and SPSS. Along with that, the use of the different statistical tools for the different sample sizes was another most beneficiary thing to me. While in report writing, introduction to ‘Zotero’ was something I appreciated. Overall the training went nice.

With UNICEF's friend

A couple of things were not nice in the period. Knowing I was alone in the hotel room, one of the Boka Men from the training had asked my room number shamelessly. I was asked 3-4 times the same thing at the very moment. However, being shocked by such nonsense and shameless act from a reputed designated person representing reputed ministry, I could not speak a word. The second time, he did try to tease me but I was rude enough to shut him up. Had it been the third time, I was damn sure to pull his collar and complain my agency. After all, I am from one of the UN agencies who have zero tolerance for abuse.

Narayani River Bank

The things that I liked about Bharatpur were the small taxi tempos as the means of a public vehicle, the wide roads, the evening walk, the morning walk by the Narayani River and all by myself. Another thing is my friends from UNICEF had come to meet me there and that made me overwhelmed. I had walked alone on the streets of Bharatpur on two evenings and was very relaxing. On one fine morning, I went down to the Narayani Riverbank, shown by my friend Bina, the later evening, and it was very refreshing but as the time was moving, the morning was becoming hotter and hotter.

I stayed there for a while and then returned back to my hotel talking the taxi tempo that I loved. I wanted to go to the famous CG temple and Devghat but due to the limitation of time and no company, I could not make it. But there is always a next time :)

With the sweet and bitter memories, I drove back to Kathmandu on Saturday noon and arrived home at around 6 PM in the evening. Exhausted by the long drive, I had to prepare for my next journey to Manang the very next day….

See you in the next travel experience. Hasta la Vista Amigos! Bijous!

My journeyS to Poon Hill

Words are falling short while I am trying to describe Poonhill. In a simple language, I would like to describe it as a hill station in the western region of Nepal which provides you with the serene landscape view of the mighty Annapurna Range. Awesome!!

Annapurna :)

I have been to Poonhill twice till now. Once with a friend and once with family. Both the time I enjoyed the nature. However, first time was hard as I got through severe calf ache from walking while in the second one I did not get any aches. Both the time, I did not go through that longest uphill stairway walk to Poonhill via Ulleri. Had I been, prolly, I never would like to go there as I would have surely given up seeing such a huge hill to walk on the stairs.

I have got six and seven senses: My Instincts and Google Bhai. Hence, I had planned my itinerary of going via Ghandruk to Tadapani and then to Poonhill and back to Pokhara via Ulleri even at first time. It worked. We stayed in a good-good hotel at Pokhara on the first day, the second day we stayed at Tadapani, Third day at Poonhill, the Fourth day at Pokhara and finally back to Kathmandu. The noodle soups tasted so nice. The same noodle never tasted nice as that before in Kathmandu. I did not go for the morning view in Poonhill height instead I made my evening view for the sunset. Reviewing my activities, I feel like “Why I always do things so unique?” Well, baby..this is me. J

Mt. Machapuchhre (Fishtail) from Ghandruk height

The second time was torturous but been once in a lifetime thingy. I went with my family. My brother did not say that his school was to resume on the 4th day of our departure and he must attend the first day by any means. I had given my family the option of either going to Dhampus or Poonhill. My sister is very gutsy and a fighter. So she opted to go for Poonhill. I had warned my aunt and brother that the trip will be very challenging as we need to walk a lot and they are the first timer. However, they got ready to go to Poonhill too.

Lucky us, we got the last bus to Ghandruk on the same day of traveling from Kathmandu. It was already 7 in the evening when we got at the Ghandruk Bus Stop and hence we stayed a night in there. My god! The food was very delicious and it tasted like a heavenly meal. I had 3 plates of rice because of that. Had a good night sleep and then the next stay started where we had to reach to Poonhill.

Fupu, Me and diju hajur :P

On the bus, we had met two lads who came to go to Poonhill and they had stayed at the same hotel with us. Since they were teenagers, they were like brothers to us and therefore, we welcomed them to go along with us. They were helpful and nice as well. Now, we became a group of six.

Family

From Ghandruk we started to walk at 7:00 AM in the morning and walked all the way to Poonhill on the same day. The way was slippery due to ice blocks on the way. With all the hardships, we reached at Poonhill at around 8 ish in the evening.  Along the way, my aunt and little brother almost cried because of having pain while walking. Poor them! 

The hotel owner charged NRs 800to each of us saying package while one room costs NRs 200. F**k! a budget traveller never opt for package. And since we were so tired and it was cold night with snow outside, even had he charged NRs 1000 each, there would not have been a place for "No". I think this was the reason why the hotel owner always greeted me like “Daughter, it seems your leg is hurting.”, “Daughter, is room comfy?”, “Daughter, have you eaten?” Goodness me. Probably inside his heart, he was smiling very hard with his all teeth shown for charging us NRs 800 each. So 6X 800= NRs 48,00 from one single night.

My leg was so hurt that I did not go to the hill station for the sunrise. However, other two brothers, who went there, snapped some pictures and I Bluetooth them. Told I snapped them after being back to Kathmandu. Damn! You see.. this is the way rather than people telling you, "Poor you! You missed the sunrise."

stone henge :P

While being back to Kathmandu, Ulleri was a leg ache. Having continuously scolded by my aunt and brother, finally, Back to Nayapul reserving the jeep from Hile and to Pokhara in a public vehicle. I was sitting next to a very handsome foreigner. Gosh! Torpi dai made him stand saying I want to sit there, and his daughter vomited. Eeew what a torture! Finally relaxed after reaching Pokhara and more when reached the hotel. Late night lakeside jamming was more fun and next day back to Kathmandu. Well, my two trips to Poonhill was this way or that way very memorable. I am looking forward to making more memories and writing them up for making as memory capsules.

Next journey: Bharatpur, Chitwan

Keep Updated if you want to get entertained with the stories I come up with! Hasta la Vista Amigos.

PS: I am thinking of making a blog related to Relationship as well. What say??? 

One Fine Day at Bandipur and Gorkha

It is very unusual for me if my brother takes me somewhere. However, sometimes, he takes me on his bike ride. He owns two bikes, FZ 32 lot, which he regards as his little brother just like I regard my scooter as a little sister and got new one Duke 200, 84 lot. Saturday is usually a busy day for my family as we ought to go to the Church. My father is a Pastor of the church. However, we barely go to church because of the work we have got. Since mom had to stay out for the whole day that day, we, brother and sister decided to go on an outing. He asked me whereabout? Since I had seen the pictures of Bandipur on the Facebook wall from my friends, I wanted to visit there as well and I told him if we could go there. He agreed. Now, taking my scooter is a no-no for the fuel capacity and the speed limit and Duke has short seat and then FZ came as the hero for the day.

me at the famous Restro of Bandipur

 Early at 6, I woke my brother up. I boiled some potatoes and arranged some snacks for us though he is a big fan of the local "Dhabaas" on the roadside. We left home at 7 in the morning and I had turned my GPS on. Riding for 3 hours, we finally sat for breakfast. Daal Makhani and Naan Roti was not delicious and had to pay NRs 150 for each. Anyway, it was all right for once.

Gorkha Bus-Park

Then we drove to Bandipur. I did not see even a glimpse of a mountain. All the mountains were so shy that they were covering themselves in a thick white fog shawl. We stayed in Bandipur Tundikhel and my brother is an avid Pani-Puri lover so he had a plate of Pani-Puri and I just stared. He did ask if I want to have one though. :P

Then we asked for the Bandipur village to shop a souvenir. Then we went to the famous photographed and visualized hotel of Bandipur. I was shocked to see the picture and reality. I will not describe more here. Please visit Bandipur and find out.

It was 12:30 in the afternoon when we left from Bandipur. Along the way, we saw the way to Gorkha. Since our dad, uncle and aunt had recently gone to Gorkha and we had time to travel 21 km each, go and back, we decided to visit Gorkha Durbar. Gorkha Durbar was lovely. I loved it. The palace of Late King Prithvi Narayan Shah. On a fine day, one can see a nice range of Lamjung Himal. I loved Gorkha.

Gorkha Durbar, Durbar

Then comes the call to our dad. Asks “Where are  you guys roaming?” He was shocked knowing that we travelled to Bandipur and then to Gorkha. It was literally and physically, a pain in the ass sitting in the backseat. Then that day, I decided, I am never going to go on a long ride on any bikes.I had a good night sleep though that day. Zzzzzzzzzz

Hasta la Vista Amigos!

Two Girls in the Woods:My 2_th Birthday

It was my 2_th birthday this year. A woman is not supposed to disclose her age so a man his salary. So, following this statement, I am not revealing my age either. Where was I? Yup… it was my 2_th birthday this year on 28th February, which I like to mention as two times Valentine’s day to entail it more special, me and my friend cum sister Amrita, we two girls decided to go on a one-night stay birthday celebration hike to Chisapani.

Birthday Girl

I already had been to Chisapani before so the way was familiar to me. I am a frank person so I had told my parents that we two are going. They were okay but as usual, more than my parents, my brother started nagging on and about my travel because I usually say that im broke. Hard to believe but true. I don’t know how and why I am usually broke. I barely spend or buy new stuff and always need to ask for money or let’s say loan. It seems I have an invisible hole in my pocket and the money drops from there.

In Amrita’s case, going two girls only amidst the woods brought the chills on her sister’s spines. Managing to convince the family, we girls headed to the celebration destination. Amrita had to come from Teku and I, from Godawari,so two different routes. Therefore, we agreed to meet each other at the Sundarijal Buspark. Honestly, I am titled as one of the punctual ones making people think like ‘Well, she is very punctual. Could that be she has some relationship with Japanese?’ Well, jokes apart. This is not true. I just talked about this because I made her wait for 30 minutes. It was not my fault either. It was the problem of the local transport; that Sundarijal Express bus. 😃

After catching her up, we two girls started our upward journey. The army checkpoint/ticket counter in Sundarijal is just a few meters above the bus station. Upon buying the ticket worth NRs 105 each, one can pass through unless you are the local villagers living up there. We were queried if we could make it up there because we were just two girls and the place where we were heading, Chisapani, lies in the National Park. We showed our guts and responded bravely that we would fight with the potential harm using the sticks and stones. Since the way was overall safe, we were permitted to enter. The danger for me was only of humans (thieves and loot) and that’s it. I did not have fear of wild animals because I knew the dangerous one would be just leopard and are nocturnal. Haha! However, I just feared for my gadgets. 

Me and Amrita

On the way, I bought a bottle of ‘Chhyang’ (Home-made Nepali rice beer). It just cost me NRs 20. To be honest, I have tried every of the alcohols from Chhyang to a very hard drink as well. I would like to stress ‘TRYING’ not ‘DRINKING’. Thank you for your understanding.  We walked and talked about ourselves, the things happening around us, the girly talks to be precise. We ate boiled eggs, boiled potatoes, fruits, and Wai Wai noodles on the way and saw the footprints of the nocturnals (probably a leopard).

We did not take the uphill route passing through the dense woods but took the rough motor route instead, passing through the village. We met many young groups on the way, staring at us, who probably were thinking ‘What the beautiful gutsy girls?’ We went through the short way, passing through ‘Dhaap’. It is almost half an hour faster than the usual one but is very uphill like the one we did not take. On that uphill journey, we met two middle-aged men who asked us if we were alone. I was witty enough to say, ‘No, we are not. Five are coming and we happened to walk faster’. Of course, it was two of us and telling the truth in such a scenario is always a No!

After crossing ‘Dhaap’ I was shocked to see the motor-way constructed there. The way was wider than my last visit because of the ongoing road expansion project. Then we reached our destination. People were looking at us and one of them finally managed to ask us if we were alone. And finally, we replied ‘yes’! It took us about 5 hours to reach to Chisapani from Sundarijal Bus Station including the time of rest.

Devastated Chisapani after an earthquake

Then the search for the hotel was another headache. 2015 earthquake had damaged a lot of houses there which were operating as the guest houses. There was a newly constructed, well just before the earthquake and no damage were incurred in that hotel. We asked for the room there and we got it. I am very quick at making relations with people. So, I started calling the hotel owner as Uncle and we stayed there as kids. Well, we were asked our age and the level of the study. No one needs to tell the truth to the stranger innit? Therefore, we lied again. Knowing the truth what would he do? So we lied. We walked down the hotel and explored the places. My friend Amrita even climbed the Rhododendron tree. I wore the creepers crown and became a birthday girl and we took lots of selfies. Coming back to the room, we Tried ‘Chhyang’. Stress: TRIED.

My birthday dinner

We then had our simple vegetarian cuisine of Daal, Vaat, Tarkari, and Achar. It was not that delicious. It is because I am very picky about vegetables. Anyway, making the stomach full, we ended our day and kept an alarm of 6:00 am for the next morning and had a good night sleep. Since it was for my birthday, we even got the discount on our lodging. Now see the power of addressing people from family relationships 'Uncle'. Moreover,  we didn't need to pay for the return permit as he talked with the counter man addressing as his nieces hahaha.

The next day, the foggy view of the sunrise was splendid too. Again, we snapped each other. Then at around 7:30 AM, we left for Kathmandu, our homes. We took another route which I have earlier mentioned while coming to Chisapani as uphill. So, this time, it will be a downhill journey. However, for about an hour it was an uphill way. We saw different species of birds in the way. Capturing them in my lens, I was enjoying the morning. Amrita was ahead of me. Then she noticed a group of Kalij Pheasants. I could not capture them in my lens as they were very smart to figure out our presence and they are quick to run. We were just talking about Kalij when we heard the purring sound from the leopard. We were immovable for a moment to make sure it’s a purring. It purred again and then we walked so fast like ‘THE FLASH’.

Chisapani Checkpost in the morning

Being away from there and walking amidst the dense Rhododendron woods, we were bit relieved. The chirping of the birds which sometimes was like whistling was the scariest because my friend Amrita told me that the loots whistles as the signal for having the trap and loot. Well o well, what needed more. There was a footstep sound coming. I ran a bit but Amrita did not so I had to stop as well. Upon stopping and waiting on her, I saw a man coming down. Now, what needs to be added to the fear. He approached nearer and nearer. Praise be to God, he was alone. Collecting all my guts, I managed to ask him if he was going to Kathmandu as well. He replied ‘Yes’ and scolded us for coming two girls alone. As per him, it was the place where a leopard and its cub was sighted a few days back. We thought he would walk with us but damn! He walked so fast that we could not walk with him.

Talking about that fearful scenario and walking all the way, it was so full of fun. One of the unique Happy Birthdays to me. Then we reached the check point and checked out. It took us around 3 and half hours to reach down to the Sundarijal Bus Station from Chisapani. Overall, I had a hell of a fun on my birthday. I love this kind of birthdays. I wish my birthday celebrations to be always in nature. I had been to Chisapani three years back on my birthday as well but companion was different. 😉

Stay tuned for another blog of my travel experience. I bet you would enjoy the girlish, feminine and exciting extrapolation of my experiences. Hasta la Vista Amigos! Hugs & Kisses.

Travel and Factors Associated: My case

Travelling is my passion. I love to travel and explore the places. Travelling makes me refreshed and happy. Overall, traveling rejuvenates me. When I’m down and want to be alone, traveling acts like a therapy and I’m all in shape. I love forests and mountains. Looking at that glorious mountains with the white snow-capped peak, the blue sky and the cool breeze, I do not need anything else. Therefore, I tend to have at least a week-long travel up in the mountains in a year. 

A foreigner in a foreign land: Hike to Stickle Tarn, UK

Following the wish, the financial and the companion issue arises. I usually address my financial issue asking with my aunts and cover the remaining from my savings through freelancing (I did write for the website) and sewing (not a good tailor but it works). And the companion, well, I feel like, this happens with everyone that when you plan for a trip, a dozen of your friends will be there saying, I might go there with you, in a week time, it drops to 4 and then when the day comes, you will be alone. I have experienced this many times and hence most of the time, I cannot manage to go. The solo woman travel is not permitted at my home, my friend’s circle and the special one. Therefore, I wait for the company and travel. And luckily, at least once a year, it happens.

In and around the Kathmandu valley, I have a perfect companion. My scooter which has been my sister and my best friend. I am the only daughter in my family, from the five children of my grandparents. I’ve got 4 brothers age ranging from 24-10 years and they all treat me like a toy, teasing me, pulling my hair, fighting with me and never following my requests. I feel No Good on being the only daughter in the family. Moreover, due to my busy schedule, which I always am (I do not like to stay idle), I barely meet my friends even though they are a handful in number. Therefore, my scooter has been my best friend and sister as she always goes around and about with me. BTW, my Scooter is a fresh B/W DIO, 79 lot. 

My dio is similar

I take her to the servicing center every now and then and thus, I am happy that she is in a perfect shape and condition. Even a scratch on her aches my heart so bad. (A description of myself and my scooter) 😃 Now ending the praise of my scooter and myself, I would like to move to my plan of next visit. I have planned to go to Tilicho with a friend (would not prefer to disclose the name). It will be a 10 days’ trip, starting from Kathmandu-Manang-Tilicho-Jomsom-Kathmandu. 

Well, now that I am a trainee at UNDP, I earn some and I have managed to access my trip this time. I am hoping to have a hell of a fun. I am excited for I will be able to use my GELERT shoes; waterproof, solid black, that I have not used since a year after being back to Nepal from my stay at the UK. I bought the pair at 24 pounds which were on 50% sale in sports-direct. Lucky me that I’ve got small feet of size 3 and I belong to kid’s section. Kid’s stuff is way cheaper in the UK than adults for the same. Then my trespass jacket of 60 pounds, wind and waterproof. I don’t like the color of the jacket personally, but what shall I do when it’s a gift. Who won’t accept a gift of 60 pounds btw. I don’t have other gears except this btw. Talking about the backpack, I will take the free bag that I got on the NHRC conference held in April. It's large so that will do to carry my snacks and stuff.

Isn't this grand? Tilicho Lake, at the highest altitude in the world

Oh! again, not missing to mention, I carry beaten rice(चिउरा), biscuits, cookies, and Wai Wai noodles (no other noodles but Wai Wai), Aaloo chips (No lays but Nepali local made), Titaura, candies, and happy dent. I am economical and love to say that I am a budget traveler. I presume you would not like to miss my blogs that I will be publishing very often onwards. Hasta la Vista! See you in the next blog.

Ghandruk Trekking: My Experience

Ghandruk-Dhampus trekking map

Ghandruk is one of the famous tourist’s destinations of Nepal. It lies at the altitude of 2600 m. The circuit gives the splendid view of Mt Fishtail, Annapurna 1, 2, 3 and South, Lamjung Himal and Mt. Manaslu along the coast of Modi River. 
Ghandruk had been my dream since two years back that I made it a reality this year in December. Ghandruk trekking is believed to be the best from Sept-May. We were two making the circuit of Ghandruk-Landrung-Pothana-Dhampus. Initially, we were traumatized by how we will be making it as we never had trekked before. And maybe the reason why, the trek became we had an awesome, unforgetful and exciting one. I had been googling the information on the web since months early as I do not have the habit of walking long. It was written favorable for all types of people so I got the motivation that I can do it and so applies to my friend. The unfamiliar trails never became unfamiliar as we walked because of the warmth and affection of the locals showing us the right way all along. 

Because of having no experience of trekking or even out of Valley alone, I first had thought of arrangements from a travel agent but later we accumulated our "Explore Yourself" nature and headed to Pokhara buying only the bus tickets of Tourist Coach from the agent and nothing else. Searching for the cheap hotel, Hotel KC seemed to be very economical and decided to go there and ask for the room, not the advance booking which we generally did.

Day 1: From Kathmandu to Pokhara

View from Hotel KC

It was 6 in the morning, I left home and met my friend at Kantipath, Jamal, from where the tourist coaches depart to Pokhara @7. There are varieties of choices of tourist coaches to Pokhara with deluxe and standard class of facilities. We opted for the standard which is comparatively cheaper than the deluxe one. The tourist coaches fare normally is $6 but varies accordingly to the coach companies. Besides, there are microbuses and local buses that leave for Pokhara from Kalanki Bus Park at every 30 minutes. It took us about 8 hours drive to reach to Pokhara Tourist Bus Park stopping at 2 places for our breakfast and lunch on the way. It was about 3 in the noon when we finally arrived the tourist bus park. 

From there, Lakeside is about 10 minutes walk and Damside is about 5 minutes walk. If we take a taxi, it costs around NRs 150 to reach the lakeside. Lakeside Pokhara was preparing to host the annual street festival when we arrived there so the price of the room was comparatively higher for the time being. It is just a turn from Damside to reach lakeside so nothing is seemed to be missed. I found Damside area quieter than lakeside which I enjoyed most as I love calmness at night. We did not dine in the hotel instead we dined outside. The dinner was very delicious with reasonable price so for the second day, we decided to have our breakfast there. The restaurant special recipe was the fishtail soup which I wanted to have but since my friend is a vegetarian I missed it. After dining at 7 in the eve, we decided to be back to our room. It was very cold outside. As soon as we reached our room, we dived in our beds and started dreaming for the second day.

Day 2: From Pokhara to Ghandruk

It was cold and foggy morning so we decided to start the voyage little late. At about 8:30 in the morning, we left the hotel and went to the same restaurant where we had dined last night. We enjoyed our breakfast with the view of the lake where the fogs from the surrounding were being disappeared and were going up cleaning up the area like we broom. We asked them about the vehicle to reach to the Nayapul from where the trekking to Ghandruk starts. They told us to take the micro to Hari Chowk or Baglung Bus Park and from there we get the jeeps or buses to Nayapul. 

We did the same and by the grace of God, the bus goes beyond Nayapul,i.e. until the “Qlu” which is the last stop of Ghandruk. From there the Ghandruk village is about 2 hours. It cost us NRs 230 each to reach to Qlu from Baglung Bus park. The drive was bouncy but the view of the majestic Himalayas was breathtaking. We were just staring at the view forgetting everything. We did not realize how fast 3 hours passed and we reached “Qlu” Although the way from Nayapul to Qlu was very bouncy and like snake trail, we watched the local lives along the drive. We saw a herd of Donkeys jumping on the way and groups of trekkers walking with the tired face. I was imagining if I had to walk that long, I would not have made to Ghandruk village within a day. It was around 2:30 in the noon when we reached the Qlu.

Mt fishtail from the way to Ghandruk village

We started walking from Qlu. The way was somewhere plain and most of the place it was steep up. But the spectacular view of Mt. Fishtail, and Annapurna South and Annapurna I made us forget our tiredness. We were more excited to reach the Ghandruk Village. There were lots of national and international flocks of people walking down and up to Ghandruk Village. We, ourselves were competing with the people who were going up to Ghandruk. We wanted to go up first. We rested, we walked, and we had lots of fun. Finally at around 4:30 we reached the gate of Ghandruk village which welcomed us into the village.

Mt fishtail from the hotel room

 The weather was clear and the view was just amazing. Since we don’t know where to reside; we needed to search for the hotel to stay that night. Ghandruk has a variety of hotel option so I figured we don’t need to worry about where to stay. Within a minute walk from the Ghandruk gate, the options for the hotels and the lodges start. We decided to go on further ahead. After 15 minutes of steep up walk, we became too tired and we did not want to move an inch so we decided to ask for the availability of the room in the nearby hotel. Luckily, the hotel had rooms available. The hotel was reasonable and comfy. The noodle soup with the mixture of local ingredients was soul-pleasing as we were craving for food with hunger. The view of the sunset was marvelous that lured us to stay outside even during such cold weather. The mountains turned golden from white and were spectacular. It was my first time to see the mountains so close as such. I was so excited and my heart was jumping with happiness. The dinner was ready by 7. We had our dinner with the guides of the tourists. The vegetables were from their farm-grown so I enjoyed the fresh and delicious Nepali dish. Afterward, we went to have our good night sleep and set for the next days walk.

Day 3: Ghandruk  to Dhampus

Even the will of staying at Ghandruk remained in the heart; we started to march towards Dhampus at 8 in the morning where we were planning to stay for the night. From Ghandruk Gate, there is a landmark showing the way to Landrunk village. We had to pass through small areas of Landrung village, Tolka, Bhedikharka, Deurali, Pothana and finally, we would be reaching Dhampus village. It is the steep downstairs walk, passing through the river and again steep upstairs walk and only then we would be reaching to the Landrung village. It took us about more or less 3 hours to reach Landrung. We became very tired and hungry as we had not had our breakfast except a cup of tea. So we decided to rest and have our petite lunch. We opted for rice and noodle. It was quite expensive but we enjoyed the meal being super hungry. We talked with the owner of the hotel and got much information about them and the village. Then we started walking towards Tolka.
It was the dusty jeep road. Only jeeps go to Landrung and the road had opened just 2 months ago. Walking forth on the way, we reached Tolka, a small village. People got confused thinking us as East Asian tourists. It was funny when we heard them conversing such and we talking aloud in Nepalese. 

Tourists on the way. Most of the way is upstairs

The way till Bhedikharka is plain. There are shortcuts which are like upstairs but we decided to walk on the plain trail. It was about 1 pm when we reached Bhedikharka. Reaching Bhedikharka, we decided to rest for a while and we entered a small shop. I was too thirsty so I enjoyed every drop of water and my friend wanted to have a cup of tea. The owner got impressed by her so she made her cup of tea free of cost. She did not charge her for the tea. She seemed very kind to her. Lucky Girl! Few minutes further,  we had to choose the way to reach Deurali. One was long which was plain, the jeep way and another was a steep upstairs way. The steep upstairs way was the only shortcut taking 1 and half hour walk and other would probably take around 2 and half hour. We opted to take the shortcut. But it took us almost 2 hours of walk. We rested and walked for many times along the way. The way was stone-paved as in stairs in the midst of woods. Finally at 3:20 we reached to Deurali: Pitam Deurali.

The downstairs way to Pothana

Pitam Deurali has a handful of lodges. Not many options to stay and eat. It was quiet relating to the visitors and the owners were staying outside playing the cards. We asked them for noodle soup as we were too hungry. Even the ordinary noodle soup was very tasty then. As soon as we finished our noodles, we started to walk to Pothana.
The way to Pothana was plain and like downstairs somewhere. We did not feel any pain in our feet until then. We enjoyed walking from Deurali to Pothana. There were landmarks from ACAP so there is no chance to get confused or lost in the way. We met a group of people going to Pothana from Lumle down from Deurali.

Pothana Village lodges and environment

 We felt safer as we had to walk between the woods and it was starting to be evening. Within quarter to an hour, we reached Pothana. Pothana has about 13 lodges. The lodges were small and beautiful. It made us feel familiar and very welcomed. It was clean and colorful. I felt it like a happy village from a fairytale story. I enjoyed even passing by there. Dhampus is the next village to Pothana. The way goes down from Pothana to reach to Dhampus. Now my feet are all tired and started to ache. My calves could feel the pain. My friend did not complain at all. I felt envious of her strength to cope with her pain. It did not take us more than 45 minutes to reach to Dhampus. It was not the clear day so the view was blurry. We stopped at the first hotel on our left reaching the Dhampus to ask for the room. We found a room and set for staying there for the night.

Day 4: Dhampus to Pokhara to Kathmandu

We woke up early that day. We had a nice sleep but maybe because of the body ache and feet pain, we could not have a sound sleep. It was good for us though as if we had woken up late, we would have missed such a splendid sunrise. Morning at Dhampus was clear. It was cold but with the sun. The splendid view of mountains from Manaslu in the east to Dhaulagiri in the west is seen from there and in close range that even the camera cannot take the shot of the mountains together. 

Dhampus village during the day

We stayed out of the room and stayed watching the mountains and the local lives in the morning from the garden of the hotel with the Masala tea. This tea which they served was really nice. I never had such tea in my life. I enjoyed the stay at Dhampus most. We left the hotel at 8:30 in the morning. Just a few meters ahead is the bus stop from where jeeps or buses go to Hari Chowk of Pokhara. They have a time schedule of departing and when we reached the bus stop, the jeep was to depart at 9 am. It took us 1 hour exact and NRs 100 each to reach to Hari chowk from Dhampus. We took a microbus from Hari Chowk to Prithvi Chowk paying NRs 15 each. Within half an hour we reached Prithvi Chowk. From there, we took a microbus to Kathmandu.

View of mountains in the morning from Dhampus

The trip was just amazing. I still get the flashback coming in my memory. I enjoyed Dhampus, the most and am planning to make Poonhill-Ghorepani circuit via Dhampus. The more I explored Nepal; I found it more luring. The more I think of Himalayas and mountains, the more I can’t stop my heart to wish to go there. Surely I will be trekking more in the days to come.